Brief description of the maintenance of the electric side of electric scooters.
In many cases, failure in some parts leads to problems in others. This is how we approach the scope by delimiting where the cause of the problem is. It is rare that the motor itself is broken. You can kill your engine by crushing it or hitting something. The cable is left quite exposed, so it's a real option. Too high a voltage will burn out the motor and as stated constant moisture will slowly corrupt it. But the electric scooter failure is usually not a motor failure. The problem is usually elsewhere and the engine is just a surrogate victim.
The engine runs intermittently.
At low speed this does not usually happen, but when accelerating it starts. The fault indicates that the motor is receiving irregular current. Something is blocking the spike, or not letting the power through. Start by checking the wires connecting the controller to the motor. Do they look good visually? Are there visible signs of overheating or even burning? Try the links one by one. Are they intact and firmly attached to each other? They are all capable of blocking electricity. In most cases, the reason is faulty or corrupt couplers. Strip the wire if necessary and replace the couplings.
If the unstable operation of the motor is caused by the broken mainframe of the electric scooter, usually the operating system has a "driver failure" warning signal displayed on the LED screen. And, if it is caused by the controller, which is quite rare with the symptoms described above, usually the controller failure comes with a strange sound, loud enough to notice even while riding the scooter. Let's exclude battery failure here - if pressure, extra weight, fast acceleration cause the scooter to turn off and after a short wait turn on again. Battery failure, caused by the BMS (Battery Management System) and its security system is turning off the battery.
The engine does not work under acceleration.
Check, if the motor is disconnected from the controller, check the motor cables. Check if the motor is connected to the controller, but the controller is not connected to the battery. This means that the motor is not indirectly connected to the battery. You can feel this even when you walk the scooter forward and notice the motor pushing back, it feels heavy, harder to push. The engine does not react when accelerating. It seems that the meter system is not receiving the command. The scooter spins, so something is wrong, but the acceleration doesn't work. Check the cables connecting the measurement system to the controller. Try them on one at a time, whether they are loose or worn. Try to find the particular wire that is sending these commands. Sometimes it is called hall out, shipping. You can ask the dealer or manufacturer what each cable is used for.
If everything else looks good, you can measure the meter wire with a 4.5-5v electricity meter test to check if any of the wires are broken somewhere inside when electricity passes through.
The scooter does not start.
Hit the ignition and try to accelerate. By doing so, you test that the LED screen is not dark or broken. Check and test the charger, is the green light on and does the charger plug look normal? Try charging the scooter one more time, try another charger if you have one. If not, let's think about other possible reasons. The battery may be empty. One reason could be that the charger is not charging or the charging port on the scooter is broken. Both mean that power is not reaching the battery. Or, there could be a fault with the charging cables and the charging port of the battery, so it can't be charged. If this is the case, charging usually just shows a green light instead of a red (charging). Check the charging cables and connectors and measure the battery to make sure the battery voltage and if they are in normal range. The battery measurement also tells you the current charge of the battery. If it is stable, but not empty. Check the wires from the speedometer to the controller, one of the reasons for not starting. There are several other reasons for this, but trying them one by one, the options, trying them and replacing them, might fix the problem. Unfortunately, we have often noticed that the fault appears after a while, due to previous bad maintenance. Someone must not have stripped and tightened the connectors well, simple as that. Sometimes water, if there is water, signs of moisture around the controller and other parts. Responsible scooter brands go to great lengths to properly seal the battery away from water. And, if the case has been opened after the first watermark, certified stores play with the brand's book and instructions. Certified resellers and partners tend to reseal watertight parts during their maintenance process. But then again, if the mechanics are random unprofessional nonsense, the actions performed are a total mystery sometimes even to themselves. However, water can cause many types of shorts, all of which can be located and corrected.
One last thing to mention: if the scooter is turned off, don't kick the scooter without turning it on. You can kill the controller.